How to choose a TV mounts

Updated June 2026Independently researchedNo paid placement.

What are the different types of TV wall mounts?

Most mounts fall into three categories: fixed, tilt, and full-motion (also called articulating). Fixed mounts keep the TV flat against the wall, they’re the thinnest, cheapest, and easiest to install. Tilt mounts let you angle the screen down a few degrees, which helps cut glare if the TV sits above eye level. Full-motion mounts have arms that let you pull the TV away from the wall, swivel left or right, and tilt. They’re the most flexible but also the bulkiest and most expensive. There’s also the ceiling mount, which is less common for living rooms but useful in bedrooms or spaces without a sturdy wall. If you have a small TV or a very specific layout, a ceiling mount might be your best bet. For most homes, a tilt or full-motion mount gives the best balance of adjustability and clean looks.

How do I know if a mount fits my TV?

Every mount lists two key specs: VESA pattern compatibility and weight limit. The VESA pattern is the distance (in millimeters) between the four mounting holes on the back of your TV. common sizes are 200x200, 400x400, and 600x400. You can find your TV’s VESA pattern in the manual or by measuring from center to center of the top and bottom holes. If the mount’s pattern covers a range (e.g., 200x200 to 600x400), it’s likely to work. Weight matters just as much. A mount rated for 100 pounds will easily hold a 50-pound TV, but using a mount rated for 50 pounds with a 55-pound TV is unsafe. Always leave a generous safety margin, a third more capacity than your TV’s weight is a good rule of thumb. Also note that ultra-thin or curved TVs sometimes need special spacers or brackets; check the mount’s notes before buying.

What tools and skills do I need to install a TV mount?

You’ll need a stud finder, a level, a drill with the right bits (usually a 3/16-inch masonry bit for brick or concrete, and a Phillips or hex bit for the mount screws), a socket or wrench set, and a tape measure. A helper is strongly recommended, most mounts are heavy, and holding a 65-inch TV while tightening bolts alone is risky. The actual installation is fairly straightforward if you’ve used a drill before: find two studs, mark the holes, drill pilot holes, and bolt the wall plate. If you’re mounting on brick, stone, or concrete, you’ll need a hammer drill and masonry anchors (usually included with the mount). Drywall alone will not support a TV. you must hit a stud or use toggle bolts rated for the full weight, but even then, studs are safer. If you’re not comfortable drilling into your walls, a professional installation is a few hundred dollars and can save you from a broken screen or wall damage.

Should I choose a full-motion or fixed mount?

Full-motion mounts are ideal if you watch TV from different seats, need to angle the screen away from a window, or want to pull the TV forward to access rear ports. They’re also great for corner installations, where a fixed mount would force the TV flat against one wall. The trade-off is that they stick out several inches even when pushed flat, some people find that visually less clean than a fixed mount that nearly touches the wall. Fixed mounts are a better choice if your viewing position is directly across from the TV and you don’t need to tilt or swivel. They’re also much cheaper, lighter, and easier to install. Tilt mounts are a middle ground: they keep the TV close to the wall but let you angle it down a bit. For most living rooms where the TV is at or slightly above eye level, a fixed or tilt mount is plenty. For a bedroom TV that you watch lying down, a tilt or full-motion mount makes more sense.

Can I mount a TV on drywall without studs?

Yes, but only if you use heavy-duty toggle bolts or snap toggles rated for the full TV weight, and even then, it’s riskier than hitting a stud. Drywall alone can hold a small TV (under 30 pounds) if the anchors are properly installed and the wall is standard 1/2-inch drywall. For anything larger, you should absolutely mount into at least one stud. Many full-motion mounts require two studs because of the leverage from the arms. If your studs aren’t where you need them, you can buy a mount that spans a wider width (some mounts work with 24-inch on-center studs) or use a plywood backer board that attaches across multiple studs. Never trust a drywall anchor that claims to hold 100 pounds without a stud, the wallboard itself can crumble over time. When in doubt, hire a pro or use a mount that specifically allows offset stud placement.

How do I hide cables with a TV mount?

Most modern mounts include cable management clips or raceways that let you route HDMI and power cables along the arms. For a cleaner look, you can cut a hole in the wall behind the TV and run cables down to an outlet at eye level, but that requires a low-voltage box and a separate hole for the power cord (you can’t hide extension cords inside a wall due to code). In-wall rated cables and a proper power relocation kit are the safest method. Alternatively, you can use a paintable cord cover that sticks to the wall and runs vertically from the TV to the outlet. It’s not as seamless as in-wall wiring, but it’s simple and reversible. If you’re renting or don’t want to cut drywall, a cord cover or a media console that hides the wires behind it is the easiest solution. Just measure the distance from your outlet to the center of the TV before you mount anything.

Frequently asked questions