How to choose the right picture frame

Updated June 2026Independently researchedNo paid placement.

What frame material should I choose?

The frame’s material sets the look, weight, and durability. Solid wood frames, like oak, walnut, or poplar, are classic, sturdy, and work with most decor. They can be stained or painted, and they hold up well over time. But they tend to be heavier and more expensive than alternatives. MDF (medium-density fiberboard) and resin frames are lighter and more budget-friendly. They often mimic wood grain or metallic finishes convincingly. The trade-off is that they can chip or dent more easily and don’t feel as substantial. For large pieces or heavy glass, a wood frame adds structural confidence. Metal frames (typically aluminum) give a sleek, modern look. They’re thin, lightweight, and come in many anodized colors. They work especially well for posters, photography, and minimalist interiors. Just note that they can feel cold or industrial in a warm room, and they often require special hardware for hanging.

What type of glass or acrylic should I get?

Standard picture frame glass is basic float glass, it’s clear but can glare badly and doesn’t protect against UV rays. For valuable or sun-facing artwork, upgrade to UV-filtering glass or acrylic. UV protection blocks most of the fading light without adding a yellow tint. Non-glare glass (etched or coated) reduces reflections, which helps in brightly lit rooms or when the frame is opposite a window. The downside is that it can soften the image slightly, especially with darker prints. An alternative is museum glass, which offers both anti-reflective and UV protection with near-invisible clarity, but it’s significantly more expensive. Acrylic (plexiglass) is much lighter and shatter-resistant, so it’s ideal for large frames, kids’ rooms, or shipping. However, acrylic scratches more easily and can build up static that attracts dust. Opt for a scratch-resistant, UV-coated acrylic if you go that route. For high-value pieces, many conservators still prefer glass for its hardness and optical purity.

Ready-made vs. custom framing: which is right for you?

Ready-made frames come in fixed sizes (like 8x10, 11x14, 16x20) and are sold at stores like IKEA, Target, or Michael’s. They’re affordable and convenient if your art is a standard size. The main drawback is limited style and sizing, you won’t find offbeat proportions or deep rabbets for thick canvases. Most ready-made frames also use basic materials. Custom framing is done by a professional framer who measures your piece, picks the moulding, mat, and glazing, and assembles everything. This is the route for heirloom art, odd sizes, valuable prints, or pieces you want to last. You’ll pay many multiples more, but you get precise fit, archival materials, and design advice. For budget-friendly custom options, some online services (like Frame USA or Simply Framed) offer made-to-order kits that you assemble yourself, a good middle ground. If you’re framing a poster or inexpensive print, ready-made is perfectly fine. For original art, signed photographs, or sentimental pieces, custom framing is worth the investment for protection and presentation.

How do I choose the right mat size and color?

A mat (or mount board) serves both aesthetic and preservation purposes. It creates breathing room between the art and the glass, preventing condensation and sticking. A mat also guides the eye and can make a small piece feel larger. Standard practice is to use a mat that’s at least 2 to 3 inches wide on each side, though narrow mats work for modern looks. Color is where many people get stuck. As a rule, choose a mat that matches a subtle tone in the artwork, not the main subject but a background shade. White and off-white are safe for most prints and photographs; they let the art shine. Cream or warm white suits vintage pieces. Dark mats (charcoal, deep navy) can make bright colors pop but risk feeling heavy. Avoid bright or strongly patterned mats unless the frame itself is very plain, too much competition hurts the overall effect. For valuable or fragile artwork, insist on acid-free, archival-quality mat board (often labeled ‘museum grade’). It won’t yellow, acid-burn, or discolor the art over decades. Cheaper mats contain lignin and acids that can irreversibly damage paper, not worth saving a few dollars for important pieces.

What size frame do I actually need?

Frames are sold by the size of the opening, not the outer dimensions. If you have a 8x10 print, you need an 8x10 frame (the opening). But if you’re adding a mat, you’ll need a larger frame to accommodate both the art and the mat. For instance, an 8x10 photo with a 2-inch mat fits in an 11x14 frame. Always measure your artwork first, then decide whether to mat and by how much. Don’t rely on ‘standard’ sizes alone, many prints and canvases deviate slightly. Always measure twice. For canvases, you need a frame that accounts for the depth (the ‘rabbet’ depth). A standard float frame works for thin canvases; deeper canvases need a frame with at least a 1.5-inch rabbet. If you’re buying online, check the frame’s stated maximum thickness. For wall groupings, plan the spacing between frames (usually 2 to 4 inches) and treat the entire collection as one visual unit. A common mistake is buying frames that are too small for the wall, when in doubt, go bigger for a bolder presence.

What's the best way to hang a picture frame?

The hardware matters as much as the frame. For lightweight frames (under 5 pounds), a simple picture hook (like a sawtooth hanger) into drywall with a nail works fine. For medium-weight frames (5-15 pounds), use a D-ring hanger with a screw anchor or a wall anchor. Heavy frames (over 15 pounds) should be mounted on a stud or use heavy-duty toggle bolts. Always check the frame’s hanging wire or brackets, replace them if they look weak. The standard hanging height is 57 to 60 inches from the floor to the center of the picture, this aligns with average eye level in galleries. For above furniture, keep the bottom of the frame 6 to 8 inches above the piece. Use a level, measure twice, and don’t rely on eyeballing. If you’re renting or want flexibility, adhesive picture hangers (like Command strips) work for frames under 12 pounds if the wall is clean and painted. They’re not reliable for textured walls or humid rooms. For safety, never hang a heavy frame over a bed or sofa without secure anchors.

Frequently asked questions