How to choose fishing pliers
Updated June 2026Independently researchedNo paid placement.
To choose fishing pliers that excel at split rings and hook removal, focus on corrosion-resistant materials like stainless steel or titanium, a secure non-slip grip, a built-in split ring opener, and a hook remover notch or slot. Prioritize models with replaceable cutters and a locking mechanism for safety on the water.
What should you look for in fishing pliers for split rings and hooks?
Start with the jaws: You want a needle-nose or duckbill design for reaching into a fish’s mouth and gripping split rings. Look for a notch or slot near the hinge that’s specifically made for prying open split rings, this saves you from fumbling with separate tools. For hook removal, many pliers include a small recess or a groove that lets you push the hook shank and twist it free without crushing the barb. Also check the tip shape. Straight tips are the most versatile for rigging and unhooking, while bent-nose pliers give you better angle access for deep-hooked fish. A built-in side cutter is essential for snipping line or cutting light wire hooks, but avoid using good cutters on heavy wire, that’s what dedicated cutters are for. Finally, consider whether you want a locking mechanism. Spring-loaded pliers automatically open after each squeeze, which speeds up long unhooking sessions, but they can be heavier. A lockable pair lets you carry them safely in your pocket or belt sheath.
What materials are best for fishing pliers?
Saltwater anglers need serious corrosion resistance. Stainless steel is the standard; the 300-series grades (like 304 or 316) hold up well if rinsed after every trip. Titanium is lighter and never rusts, but it costs noticeably more. Aluminum models are lightweight and budget-friendly but can corrode in saltwater quickly unless they are anodized. Handle coatings matter too. Rubberized or plastic-dipped handles provide grip when wet, but they can crack over time. Corrosion-proof handles that are part of the frame, like those on high-end titanium pliers, last longer. Avoid carbon steel pliers for any saltwater use; they will rust even if you treat them. For the cutter insert, hardened stainless steel or replaceable carbide discs are ideal. Replaceable cutters extend the life of your pliers significantly because you can swap them out when they dull.
How important are the jaws and cutting edge?
The jaw shape determines how well you can grip a slimy hook or a tiny split ring. Precision needle-nose jaws with fine tips let you work inside a trout’s mouth or thread a split ring onto a lure eyelet. Duckbill jaws (flat and wide) offer more surface area for crushing barbs or gripping wire, but they are less precise. Cutters should be sharp enough to cleanly snip monofilament, fluorocarbon, and braid. A notch for braid is helpful because braided line can slip. Some pliers include a micro-notch for cutting small wire, that’s a bonus. For hooks, check the cutter location; if it’s recessed, you can cut a hook shank without accidentally nicking the line near the eye. Replaceable cutter jaws pay off in the long run. If the edges get dull from cutting wire leaders or heavy hooks, you just swap the insert rather than buying whole new pliers. Some brands use a carbide insert that stays sharp for years.
What about grip and handle design?
A secure, non-slip grip is critical when your hands are wet and slimy. Look for handles with a textured rubber or polymer coating that extends close to the pivot. Contoured grips that fit your fingers reduce hand fatigue during long unhooking sessions. Spring-loaded handles are common, but make sure the spring is corrosion-resistant (stainless or coated). Some pliers have a sliding lock that keeps them closed for safe storage. A carabiner loop or a lanyard hole makes it easy to attach them to a vest or belt. If you fish from a kayak or boat, a lanyard is almost essential so you don’t drop your pliers overboard. Heavier pliers can anchor your hand for more force, but lightweight models are easier to use for delicate work. Try to balance weight with durability. If you primarily fish freshwater, a medium-weight stainless model is fine. For all-day saltwater wading, lightweight titanium can be worth the extra cost.
Should you get pliers with a split ring tool built in?
Yes, if you change lures often. A built-in split ring opener, typically a small tab or notch near the hinge, lets you open the ring with one hand while you insert the eye. This feature is common on many fishing-specific pliers, even budget models. It’s far faster than using a separate split-ring tool or trying to pry the ring open with your fingernails. Some pliers combine the split ring opener with a hook remover slot. These multi-tool designs are convenient but can be bulkier. If you rarely change split rings, you can skip that feature and save a few dollars. But for bass fishermen who retie frequently, it’s a huge time-saver. Just be aware that the split ring notch is only effective for a certain range of ring sizes. Larger rings (like those on big saltwater lures) may not fit well, so test the notch on the rings you use most.
How to maintain and care for fishing pliers?
Rinse your pliers with fresh water after every saltwater trip, then dry them with a cloth. Don’t just dunk them, work the joints and open the jaws to flush out salt crystals. A drop of light oil (like reel oil or corrosion inhibitor) on the pivot and spring keeps them moving smoothly. If you accidentally drop them in saltwater for a long time, soak them in warm fresh water and scrub with a toothbrush. For rusty spots, use a fine steel wool or a rust remover, then re-oil. Replaceable cutters should be inspected periodically; if they chip, swap them out. Store pliers in a dry place, preferably in a padded sheath that protects the tips. Avoid leaving them in direct sunlight on a boat console; UV can degrade rubber grips. With regular care, a good pair of pliers can last many seasons.
Frequently asked questions
Are split ring pliers the same as fishing pliers?
Not exactly. Split ring pliers are a specialty tool designed only for opening and closing split rings, with very fine tips and no cutter or hook remover. Fishing pliers are multi-purpose, combining split ring functionality, hook removal, and wire cutting in one tool. For most anglers, a good pair of fishing pliers is more versatile.
What size fishing pliers do I need?
Most fishing pliers are around 6 to 9 inches long. Six-inch pliers are lightweight and good for panfish and trout. Eight-inch pliers are the most common all-around size, balancing reach and leverage for bass, walleye, or inshore species. Nine-inch pliers give extra crushing power for larger hooks and are better for heavy saltwater fishing.
Do I need side cutters on my fishing pliers?
For most fishing, yes. Side cutters let you trim line cleanly and cut hooks when necessary. If you only fish with barbless hooks and always use scissors for line, you might skip cutters, but they are standard on nearly all fishing pliers. For heavy wire hooks, get pliers with a separate notch or carbide inserts that can handle the strain.
Can I use regular pliers for fishing?
You can in a pinch, but they won’t have the corrosion resistance, split ring opener, or hook remover slot that fishing-specific pliers offer. Regular pliers also tend to have smooth or lightly textured jaws that slip on wet hooks. A dedicated fishing plier is worth the investment if you fish more than a few times a year.
How do I remove a deep-hooked fish safely?
Use pliers with a long, narrow tip to reach the hook without damaging the fish’s gills or eyes. Insert the pliers along the hook shank, grasp the hook as close to the barb as possible, and give a gentle twist or push to free the barb. If the hook is swallowed, cutting the line and leaving the hook is often safer for the fish. Some pliers have a jaw notch that helps slide the hook out smoothly.
What is the best way to open a split ring?
Use the split ring opener notch on your pliers: slide the ring into the notch, squeeze gently to spread the ring open, then slide the lure eye into the gap. If your pliers lack that notch, you can use the tip of the closed pliers to pry one end of the ring outward. Always open the ring sideways to avoid deforming its shape.