How to choose the right dog crate
Updated June 2026Independently researchedNo paid placement.
A dog crate is one of the most practical tools for training, safety, and travel, but choosing the right one means matching size, material, and design to your dog's breed, temperament, and lifestyle. This guide walks you through the key decisions so you can pick a crate that your dog will actually feel good about.
What size crate should I get for my dog?
The single most common mistake is buying a crate that’s too large. A crate should be just big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably. If it’s too roomy, some dogs will use one end as a bathroom, which works against house-training. Most crates come in standard sizes tied to weight ranges, but don’t rely on that alone—measure your dog from nose to tail (while standing) and from the top of the head to the floor (while sitting). Add a few inches to each measurement, and that’s your target interior length and height. For puppies, adjustable dividers are a lifesaver. They let you shrink the interior space as the pup grows, so you don’t have to buy multiple crates. Many wire crates come with a divider panel included. If not, you can buy one separately or use a sturdy cardboard box as a temporary block. Just make sure the divider is securely fastened so it can’t be dislodged.
Wire crate vs plastic crate vs soft-sided: which is best?
Wire crates are the most popular for home use. They offer great airflow, visibility, and often fold flat for storage. The mesh construction lets your dog see what’s going on, which can reduce anxiety for some dogs, but it can also be overstimulating for a nervous dog. Wire crates usually come with a removable metal tray for easy cleaning. They tend to be very sturdy, and many include a divider panel. The trade-off is that they’re heavier and not ideal for air travel. Plastic crates (often called “airline crates”) are enclosed on most sides with a metal door. They’re darker and more den-like, which many dogs find calming. They’re required for air travel and are generally more durable for chewers. However, they’re heavier, have less airflow, and don’t fold flat. Soft-sided crates are lightweight and portable, perfect for car trips, camping, or indoor use with well-behaved, calm dogs. They are not secure for chewers or escape artists and won’t hold up to rough handling. Bottom line: wire for training and home, plastic for travel and chewers, soft-sided for casual use only.
What safety and comfort features matter most?
A good crate should have smooth edges and no sharp spots where wires meet. Look for a door latch that locks securely yet opens easily for you. Many crates have a two-slide-bolt design that prevents a clever dog from nudging the door open. The floor pan should be leak-proof and easy to remove for cleaning. Some pans are made of heavy-duty plastic, others are metal; either is fine as long as it doesn’t have sharp corners. Comfort-wise, a crate is only as good as what you put inside. A quality crate mat or bed that fits snugly (without bunching up against the door) adds warmth and cushioning. Avoid thick, fluffy beds for dogs that chew or overheat. Many crates come with a flat plastic pan that is slippery for older dogs; a non-slip mat or rubber-backed rug can help. Ventilation is key: wire crates offer the best airflow, while plastic crates rely on side vents. If you choose plastic, make sure the vents are unobstructed and large enough for good circulation.
How do I choose a crate for travel or home use?
For home use, a wire crate with a divider is hard to beat. It gives you flexibility for a growing puppy, and it can double as a side table with a crate cover on top. If you travel frequently by car, a foldable wire crate is convenient, but a plastic crate is safer in a crash because it’s more rigid. Soft-sided crates are great for very short trips or bringing your dog into a hotel, but they offer almost no crash protection. For air travel, only hard-sided plastic crates that meet IATA standards are allowed, and you must check specific airline size requirements. When traveling, also consider how the crate fits in your vehicle. Measure your cargo space before buying. A crate that is too tall may block rear visibility, and one that is too wide may not fit through your trunk opening. For frequent travelers, a crate with carrying handles and tie-down loops is a nice bonus. Some crates have wheels, but those are mainly for large airport kennels, not everyday use.
Are there any downsides to using a crate?
No tool is perfect. The biggest downside is that some dogs genuinely dislike being confined. If not introduced gradually, a crate can cause stress rather than reduce it. Crates also take up floor space, and large dog crates can dominate a room. Wire crates can be drafty in winter, and plastic crates can get stuffy in summer. Soft-sided crates are almost useless for a determined chewer or a dog with separation anxiety. Also, crates should never be used as punishment or as a substitute for exercise and attention; that’s when they become harmful. Another practical drawback: cleaning a crate is easy but you still need to do it regularly. Dogs can soil their crate, especially during potty training, and urine can seep under the pan or into crevices. Wire crates with a removable tray are simplest to clean. Plastic crates require more disassembly. Lastly, crates can be a pain to move around if they don’t fold flat. If you plan to shift it between rooms, consider one that collapses easily.
How to measure your dog for a crate correctly?
Start with a tape measure. Measure your dog from the tip of the nose to the base of the tail while they’re standing. That’s the length you need for the crate floor. Add 2 to 4 inches for wiggle room. Next, measure from the top of the head (or the highest point when sitting) straight down to the floor. Add 3 to 5 inches so your dog has clearance to stand fully without hunching. Finally, measure the width of your dog at the widest point (usually the shoulders) and add 2 inches. The crate should be at least that wide. For dogs with long legs or deep chests (like a Great Dane or Greyhound), you may need a “long” or “extra tall” size. Many manufacturers offer size charts, but always compare against your own measurements. Don’t guess based on weight alone: a lean 50-pound dog and a stocky 50-pound dog can have very different dimensions. When in doubt, go for the size that gives your dog room to turn around but not extra space to pace.
Frequently asked questions
Should I get a crate with a divider panel?
Yes, especially if you’re buying for a puppy. A divider lets you adjust the interior space as the dog grows, making a single crate last through adulthood. For adult dogs whose size won’t change, a divider is less important, but it can still be useful if you ever need to temporarily restrict space (e.g., after surgery).
Can I use a crate for potty training?
Absolutely. Dogs instinctively avoid soiling their sleeping area, so a correctly sized crate is a powerful potty-training aid. The key is that the crate must not be so large that the dog can use one end as a bathroom and sleep at the other end. Never leave a puppy crated longer than they can hold it, and always take them outside immediately after release.
Is it cruel to crate a dog during the day?
It depends on the duration and the dog. Crating for 8+ hours daily without breaks is not recommended for most dogs. A good rule of thumb is no more than 4-5 hours at a time for adult dogs, with plenty of exercise and bathroom breaks in between. Puppies need more frequent breaks. A crate should be a safe haven, not a default holding pen. If your dog shows signs of distress or you can’t provide breaks, consider alternatives like a playpen or dog-proofed room.
What is the best crate for a dog that chews or is an escape artist?
For heavy chewers, look for a heavy-duty crate made of welded steel or reinforced wire with no exposed plastic parts. Plastic crates can be chewed through if the dog is determined, and soft-sided crates are useless. Some escape artists can undo slide-bolt latches; choose a model with locking pins or even padlocks. Alternatively, consider a crate cover to reduce visual stimulation that might trigger escape attempts.
Do I need a crate cover?
A cover can help many dogs feel more secure by creating a den-like, darker environment. It can also reduce drafts in winter. However, not all dogs like covers; some will pull them inside and shred them. If your dog has done that, skip the cover or use a heavy-duty cover with tie-downs. Avoid covering the crate completely without adequate airflow, especially in warm weather. A cover that leaves the back and part of the sides exposed is often ideal.
How do I clean a dog crate?
Most wire and plastic crates have a removable tray or pan that can be wiped down with mild soap and water. For plastic crates, you may need to unscrew the top half to fully scrub the interior. For stubborn odors or stains, use an enzymatic cleaner designed for pet messes. The wire frame itself can be wiped with a damp cloth. Soft-sided crates are trickier; spot-clean them and check if the fabric can be removed and machine-washed. Always dry thoroughly to prevent mildew.