How to choose the right cat litter box
Updated June 2026Independently researchedNo paid placement.
The best cat litter box for you depends on your cat's size, age, and preferences, plus your home layout and cleaning tolerance. Focus on finding an easy-to-clean design with ample interior space, good odor control (either through a filter or a covered style), and a low entry if you have a kitten or senior cat. Skip overly complicated automated models if you prefer simplicity; a basic uncovered pan with a high-quality clumping litter often works best.
Open vs. covered vs. self-cleaning – which type should you choose?
Open pans are the most affordable and allow your cat quick escape, making them ideal for multi-cat homes or nervous cats. The trade-off is that litter scatter and odors are fully exposed. Covered boxes trap smells and give shy cats privacy, but they can feel cramped and may trap odors if not cleaned often. Self-cleaning models (automatic raking or sifting) reduce daily scooping but introduce moving parts, higher cost, and noise that spooks some cats. They also require compatible litter and regular deep cleaning. For most households, a high-sided open pan or a well-ventilated covered box is a simpler, more reliable choice.
What size litter box does my cat really need?
A common mistake is buying a box that is too small. Your cat should be able to turn around fully, squat without touching the walls, and exit comfortably. For an average adult cat, look for a box at least one and a half times the cat’s length (consider the nose-to-tail length). Extra-large boxes are ideal for heavy or long-bodied breeds like Maine Coons. If your cat consistently eliminates over the edge or seems restless inside, the box is too small. Remember that covered boxes may feel smaller because of the low ceiling, so consider an oversized covered model or an open pan for big cats.
How can I reduce tracking and litter scatter?
Tracking is largely controlled by the entry design and the mat you place outside. Top-entry boxes (with a lid opening on top) force litter to fall off the cat’s paws as they jump out, drastically reducing scatter. However, older or arthritic cats may struggle with the jump. Low-front boxes with high back walls are a popular compromise: the cat walks in, and the high sides prevent kicking litter out the back. Pair any box with a textured litter mat (a few feet long) placed right outside the entrance. Also, choose a larger, heavier litter pellet – like pine or walnut – which is less likely to cling to paws than fine clay.
What's the best material and design for easy cleaning?
Plastic is the standard, but non-stick (smooth-surface) plastics resist staining and odor better than rough, porous ones. Some boxes are made from stainless steel or coated ceramic; these are non-porous and extremely easy to wipe down, though heavier and pricier. Look for rounded corners (not sharp angles where dirt hides) and a rim that doesn’t trap pee. A box with a built-in sieve or a flip-and-sift design can make full litter changes faster. Avoid boxes with complex grates or ridges that require disassembly – they collect moisture and bacteria. The simpler the interior, the faster your weekly scrub takes.
How many litter boxes do I need for multiple cats?
The general rule is one box per cat plus one extra. So a two-cat home should have at least three boxes placed in different rooms or areas. This reduces guarding behavior and gives each cat a clean option even if one box is soiled. If you have a single cat, one box is sufficient as long as you scoop daily. But even for one cat, having two boxes can help if you travel or if the cat is picky. For small apartments with two cats, try two boxes in different corners, not side by side.
Are specialty boxes (for seniors, kittens, or disabled cats) worth considering?
Yes, especially if your cat has mobility challenges. Low-entry boxes (front wall under 4–5 inches) allow arthritic or senior cats to step in without jumping. Some boxes have a ramp or a side cutout that is flush with the floor. Kittens also need a low entry to avoid intimidation. For disabled cats (e.g., blind or amputee), a large, open pan with consistent placement and easily felt edges helps orientation. Avoid covered or high-sided models in these cases. Specialty boxes cost a bit more but can greatly improve your cat’s quality of life and reduce accidents.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I completely change the litter and scrub the box?
For clumping clay litter, deep-clean the box every two to four weeks: dump all litter, wash with mild soap and warm water, dry thoroughly, then refill. For non-clumping or plant-based litters, replace entirely weekly. In multi-cat homes, increase frequency. A bleach soak once a month helps with stubborn odor, but rinse well to remove chemical residue.
Self-cleaning litter boxes – are they worth the higher price?
They save daily scooping but come with trade-offs: mechanical parts can break, they cost several times as much as a basic pan, and some cats dislike the noise or motion. They work best for busy owners who can still deep-clean weekly and observe their cat’s output for health issues. If you hate scooping, they are worth considering, but start with a refundable model.
What's the best placement for a litter box in a small apartment?
Place it in a quiet, low-traffic spot away from the cat’s food and water. Avoid tight closets that can trap fumes. If space is tight, use a covered box or a piece of furniture that hides the box (like a cabinet with a side entrance). Ensure the box is easily accessible – not behind a heavy door or under a table where the cat feels trapped.
How can I tell if my cat hates the litter box I chose?
Warning signs include peeing or pooping right outside the box, scratching at the walls, perching on the rim, or refusing to fully enter. If your cat suddenly starts eliminating elsewhere, the box may be too small, too dirty, or have a strong odor (from plastic or liner). Try switching to a larger, uncovered box and change to a different litter texture before troubleshooting health issues.
Do I need a special litter box for a picky cat that tracks clay everywhere?
Yes, you can reduce tracking significantly with a top-entry or high-walled box, plus a large textured mat. Also consider switching to a larger-grained litter like pine pellets or crushed walnut – they track less than fine clay. Avoid scented litters, as some cats dislike the perfume and may reject the box altogether.
What about odor control – carbon filters vs. baking soda vs. covered boxes?
Carbon filters in covered boxes absorb some odors but need monthly replacement. A well-ventilated room and daily scooping do more for odor than any filter. Covered boxes can actually concentrate smell if airflow is poor. Baking soda mixed into the litter helps mildly. The best odor fighter is a high-quality clumping litter and a consistent cleaning schedule.