How to choose acrylic paints
Updated June 2026Independently researchedNo paid placement.
For most beginners, a set of student-grade paints from a reputable brand offers the best balance of performance and value. Focus on pigment load, lightfastness, and consistency rather than brand name. Artist-grade paints are worth the investment if you need maximum vibrancy and longevity.
What makes a quality acrylic paint?
The core of any acrylic paint is pigment – the finely ground particles that give it color. Quality paints use more pigment and less filler, which means stronger colour, better coverage, and less fading over time. Check the label for lightfastness ratings (look for ASTM I or II) to ensure your work won’t bleach out in sunlight. The binder is acrylic polymer emulsion, and its formulation affects how the paint feels and dries. Higher-quality brands tend to have a creamier, more buttery consistency that holds brush marks and blends more easily. Cheaper paints can feel watery or rubbery and may crack when dry. Another clue is the pigment index number – listing a single pigment (e.g., PB29 for ultramarine) usually indicates a purer colour, while blends of cheaper pigments can produce duller mixes. If you see “hue” after a colour name, it’s often a less expensive substitute made from multiple pigments.
Student vs artist grade: which should you choose?
Student-grade acrylics (like Liquitex Basics or Winsor & Newton Galeria) are perfectly fine for learning, practicing, and projects that don’t need archival quality. They cost less because they use lower concentrations of pigment, sometimes more filler, and occasionally less expensive pigments. You’ll notice you need more layers to get full opacity, and the colour may be slightly less vibrant. Artist-grade paints (such as Golden Heavy Body, Liquitex Professional, or Winsor & Newton Artists’ Acrylic) have higher pigment loads and use single-pigment formulations for cleaner mixes. They also offer more consistency control and better lightfastness. If you’re selling work or want the richest colour saturation, artist grade is worth the step up. But for daily practice and experimentation, student grade does the job without breaking the bank.
How to pick the right viscosity and finish
Acrylics come in a range of viscosities. Heavy body paints hold their shape and show brush or palette knife marks – ideal for impasto techniques. Soft body (also called fluid) paints pour easily and work well for glazing, airbrushing, or smooth washes. Both are available in most professional lines. Finish matters too: matte paints reduce glare and give a velvety look, while gloss finishes have a shiny, reflective surface that makes colours pop. Satin sits in between. Many artists buy a matte medium or gloss medium to adjust the finish after painting rather than committing to one type of paint. Also consider open acrylics (like Golden Open) that stay wet longer – great for blending – but note they dry more slowly and require a different workflow.
Do you need a full spectrum of colors?
New painters often feel they need every colour in the rainbow, but a limited palette of five to eight tubes is far more practical. Start with a warm and cool of each primary (crimson red, cadmium yellow, ultramarine blue, along with a white and maybe a black) – this lets you mix a huge range of hues. Add a few earth tones like burnt sienna or raw umber for convenience. Buying a large set of cheap paints typically means you’re paying for many hues that are actually just mixtures of the same few cheap pigments. You’re better off spending the same money on a smaller number of high-quality tubes. As you gain experience, you can add specialty colours like quinacridones, phthalos, or interference paints.
Common pitfalls to avoid as a new buyer
One mistake is ignoring the lightfastness rating – paint that looks beautiful now may fade or shift colour within a year if it’s not rated for longevity. Always check the tube or the brand’s website. Another is buying paint that’s too cheap to work properly. Very inexpensive craft acrylics often lack enough pigment and binder, leading to poor coverage, chalky drying, and brittle films. They’re fine for mixed-media crafts but frustrating for serious painting. Lastly, don’t assume that expensive always equals better for your needs. A mid-range student grade may actually perform well enough for your technique. Buy a single tube of a colour you use often and test it alongside a cheaper alternative to see the difference for yourself.
Frequently asked questions
What does “lightfastness” mean and why does it matter?
Lightfastness measures how resistant a pigment is to fading when exposed to light. An ASTM rating of I (excellent) or II (very good) means the colour will stay true for decades under normal display conditions. If you want your paintings to last, avoid paints with a rating of III or lower.
Can I mix acrylic paints from different brands?
Yes, you can mix acrylics from different reputable brands as long as they are all water-based and of similar consistency. However, be aware that different brands use slightly different binders, which can affect drying time, gloss, and adhesion. Stick to brands you trust and test mixes on a palette first.
How do I know if a paint is opaque or transparent?
Many paint brands mark opacity on the tube or label – look for a filled circle (opaque), half-filled (semi-opaque), or open circle (transparent). You can also test by painting a thin stripe over a black line: if the line shows through, the paint is transparent. Opacity matters for layering and coverage.
What is the difference between heavy body and fluid acrylic?
Heavy body paint is thick and holds stiff peaks – it keeps brush or knife marks and is great for impasto. Fluid acrylic has a pourable, ink-like consistency that works well for stains, washes, airbrushing, and fine detail with a brush. Many artists keep both on hand for different techniques.
Are expensive acrylic paints worth the money?
If your goal is archival quality, maximum pigment load, and consistent performance, then yes – professional-grade paints justify their cost. For practice or casual projects, a good student-grade paint provides plenty of value. The key is matching the paint quality to the intended use and your skill level.
How should I store acrylic paint to make it last?
Store tubes upright in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures. Always wipe the threads and cap clean before sealing to prevent the paint from gluing the cap shut. For mixed paint on a palette, use a wet palette or a stay-wet palette to keep it workable for hours or even days.